Diane, in and out of Italy: Jul 1, 2011

On Thursday morning June 30 we left Venice via a Eurostar train for Florence. The train was crowded, but fast. We chose Class 2 thinking that there might be fewer Americans and more Italians, but I'm not sure that turned out to be the case. "Where 'ya from?" "Newark. You?" At any rate, we had assigned seats and slept pretty much the whole way.

Once in Florence we decided to take a taxi because we were tired, hot and I didn't really know the way to walk to the hotel: two minutes ride = 14 euros. Not the best bargain imaginable.

Because the internet had been closed to us for so long, I didn't have access to the hotel address and so had to walk around the Duomo rather aimlessly looking for a sign. Eventually, after enlisting some help, we found our B&B.

It's called "A Florence View" and I would say it's aptly named. What do you think?

This is what we see from our window: the Baptistry and the Duomo

Our room

Huge wardrobe, handpainted

Painting on the ceiling

Modern bathroom, looks as if just renovated

Breakfast, delivered to the room

This is just about my ideal place to stay: plenty of history, pretty, comfortable, the people who run it are great, and it's a bargain at less than 100 euros a night. The only downside I see at this point is some noisy revelry going on past midnight outside (the windows block a lot of noise but not all of it; earplugs took care of the problem entirely), and there are three flights of stairs to climb... but the owners are so nice about the luggage, insisting on carrying it up for you.

After demolishing the marvelous breakfast, we walked down towards the Arno, passing boutiques with famous names spashed all over them... a playground for the rich, I guess. There was a Rolex store with people actually in it, buying things. We got to the Ponte Vecchio just as a fairly large thunder storm started unloading, so we hung out in the museum until the worst of it had passed and then bought some

thin plastic ponchos just for insurance.

The Ponte Vecchio

Just like mushrooms, the guys with umbrellas and ponchos spring up at the first drops of rain: "How much?" "Five euros" "Forget it" "WAIT... seven euros for TWO" "Two? OK" (while I'm fumbling for the money, he makes a deal with the next customer for three euros) "Wait a minute! Here's six." And he says "OK". Probably he gets them for pennies, but it's also a rough way to make a living... waiting for the rain.

We found our way back to the Duomo and because the rain temporarily drove the tourist masses "underground", we got in quite rapidly. It's very eyecatching on the outside but much more subdued inside. The space itself is huge, however; it can accomodate 20,000 people at one time!! I am happy to report that there were considerably fewer than that when I was there. The voluminous interior dates from the 15th century, and some beautiful stained glass from that time as well. The flashy exterior, however, was done in the 19th century; it replaced the original which was destroyed in the late 1500's. Three centuries is a long time to wait for "clothes".

The Duomo Interior

After a bit of blogging, we wandered around the area where the B&B is located (Centro Storico) looking for specific places to eat that had been recommended by TripAdvisor. After several wrong turns and the #1 rated place rather snottily telling us that they were booked solid up until the day we leave, we found a pretty good place: La Bussola. We sampled the soup de Mare (unbelievably excellent... mussels and clams in a garlic and tomato broth, then shared a really thick kind of pasta cut into triangles in pesto, followed by prawns in a rich sauce... all with Proseco and red wine. The only problem really was not being able to fit in dessert .

Goodnight from the Duomo

A few last bits:

Here are a couple of photos taken one night after dinner. The location is very close to our apartment.

And now for the rest of what we saw of the Biennale. Again, it will just be a taste of it... plus I can't possibly post all of the related information such as artist's name and country of origin. (Though, if it is important for you to know about specific pieces, email me and I'll get the info. to you).

This is the James Turrell room... brilliant! He modifies your perception of space with only lighting. Walking into it, you are convinced that you are about to walk into a wall, (that orange space is the portal). Once through to the other side, the beautiful blue room emerges, but slowly because it seems as if you are surrounded by mist and nothing is defined... including the floor. Loved this!!

And more:

A wonderful dragon made from inner tubes and hand-stitched together

Intricate wax sculptures... candles! Lit at the beginning of the exhibit and will continuously burn until November. And yes, that one on the left is a candle too!!